If you are accessing your files through dolphin on your Linux device this change has no effect on you. In that case Synology is just sharing files and it doesn’t know or care what kind of files they are.

This change is mostly for people who were using the Synology videos app to stream videos. I assume Plex is much more common on Synology and I don’t believe anything changed with Plex’s h265 support.

If you were using the built in Synology videos app and have objections to Plex give Jellyfin a try. It should handle h265 and doesn’t require a purchase like Plex does to unlock features like mobile apps.

Linux isn’t dropping any codecs and should be able to handle almost any media you throw at it. Codec support depends on what app you are using, and most Linux apps use ffmpeg to do that decoding. As far as I know Debian hasn’t dropped support for h265, but even if they did you could always compile your own ffmpeg libraries with it re-enabled.

How can I most easily search my NAS for files needing the removed codecs

The mediainfo command is one of the easiest ways to do this on the command line. It can tell you what video/audio codecs are used in a file.

With Linux and Synology DSM both dropping codecs, I am considering just taking the storage hit to convert to h.264 or another format. What would you recommend?

To answer this you need to know the least common denominator of supported codecs on everything you want to play back on. If you are only worried about playing this back on your Linux machine with your 1080s then you fully support h265 already and you should not convert anything. Any conversion between codecs is lossy so it is best to leave them as they are or else you will lose quality.

If you have other hardware that can’t support h265, h264 is probably the next best. Almost any hardware in the last 15 years should easily handle h264.

When it comes to thumbnails for a remote filesystem like this are they generated and stored on my PC or will the PC save them to the folder on the NAS where other programs could use them.

Yes they are generated locally, and Dolphin stores them in ~/.cache/thumbnails on your local system.

North Dakota like many states has a renters refund for those with lower incomes which is designed to at least partially offset that. Limits look to be a bit low but every little bit helps.

I’ve got several full color Hue bulbs that are the most used lights in my house. I haven’t had a single failure in a decade.

I was more than a little annoyed when they decided to stop supporting my original controller for them though.

Gerrymandered districts are more in danger not less. Gerrymandering is about spreading out areas which are easy wins, and instead spreading those votes over multiple districts.

You gain more seats, but you make every race closer.

The switches don’t have to control the lights they are wired to. I have Inovelli z-wave switches, and on these you can disable the relay. So the switch can still send out commands/scenes on the network but the relay is always on.

Then you would put in a relay unit in the electrical box of the lights or if you have enough room in with the switches. Then setup the switches to control their respective sets of lights.

Might even be a switch out there that lets you disconnect the relay from the buttons on the switch but still control the relay which would cut down on the device count.

Digitizer issues are usually from getting the wrong digitizer. They are programmed differently for the HAC-001(-01) (v2 classic switch) vs the HAC-001 (v1 classic switch).

More specifically the game card reader board that the digitizer plugs into needs to match. So make sure you buy your digitizer to match the game card reader version, or buy a game card reader to go with it (you can get them for ~$14). Unfortunately many digitizer sellers on eBay don’t say which model it is designed for.

Alternatively you can mix and match those versions if you have an unpatched/modded switch. Just launch Hekate, go to tools and run the digitizer calibration.

I haven’t repaired too many switches but the first time it happened to me I had a spare v2 game card reader and that fixed it immediately. Second time I used the Hekate method and that worked just as well

I recently bought a used switch from eBay which didn’t come with Joy-Cons as a gift for someone else. Took my OLED’s Joy-Cons and popped them on to test while I was waiting for the new Joy-Cons to arrive…

Well little did I know there was something sticky that had gotten on the contacts of this used switch, which then transferred to the Joy-Cons. I of course plugged them back into my OLED trying to figure out what was going on and transferred enough of whatever it was to my OLED to start causing problems as well.

Long story short it doesn’t take much to break that contact.

If you have an original switch and the right tools to open it up (needs a tri-wing screw driver), it is pretty easy to open it up, remove the contacts from the rail and thoroughly clean them. Worked perfectly to get the used switch back to brand new.

Of course don’t forget to do the same on the contacts of the Joy-Cons They need the same tri-wing screwdriver to open.

The OLED is a bit more of a PITA to get the rails out, so if you have an OLED or don’t have the tools to open your original you can make a makeshift cleaner like this person did (sorry about the reddit link). Joy-Con Rail Contact Cleaning Tool

I used a much smaller cable tie so that I could fit some isopropyl dipped gauze around the tip to get into the contacts (power off your switch entirely first!!!).

Careful on the Joy-Cons if you try to use something like that tool. The Joy-Cons are the spring side of the contact so you could easily bend them and make things worse.

If you have problems with stick drift and feel comfortable opening them up, you can get replacement sticks on eBay for $5-6 a piece.